The later alternator type crank on the Model 50 like mine or on an ES2 model is longer to hold the rotor. The retaining nut is also smaller than on the earlier type.
The standard Norton conrod for my machine is the lower one. I am experimenting with an alloy racing one which is also 6 1/2 " between centres. The problem of it fouling the cylinder wall is one which one has always to be carefully considered and the wall relieved.
Always worried the bike will come off the trailer when towing !! Hence the many tie-downs...I must find a more efficient way as it takes an age to up load and down load at a track.
last season ! a bent valve smashed piston on the left...what they should look like on the right !
Getting back to normal...it has been a long winter...timing side....
...the only bit of the original paintwork from the norton works in Bracebridge Street in Birmingham is on the
inner primary chaincase and I am keeping it that way !
Using my old 'periscope' type dial gauge mainly as an aid to checking taper in the bore.
Lumpy racing cams- compare with below- make a transformational difference to performance.
Standard cams were designed for a compromise of smooth running; economy and noise.
I always taper the valve head end of valve guides as they seem to come parallel nowadays.
At last getting things back to normal